knife & skillet

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Les Pate a Choux.
I spent weeks on this recipe.  Baking sheet upon baking sheet, piping eclairs, cream puffs, profiteroles, swans, gougeres, making fillings, ganache, chantilly cream, creme anglais, writing down every change in the recipe, a recipe that at its most basic includes only four ingredients, bakes quickly and, best of all, forgives.
For a while I interned at a french pastry test kitchen, the head pastry chef and myself, going through recipes, testing, retesting, tasting, retasting, and this being pastry, where you can’t just make one of anything, throwing out all the extras at the end of the day. Of all the “Les Pate a Choux” we made, this was my favorite.  I like taking the baking just a little dark.  The crust, the ‘ugliness’ and non-uniformity, the crispy outside and creamy inside.  Delicate and delicious.
recipe
For it being composed of four basic ingredients, attention is in high demand, and the piping needs to be done uniformly, pointing straight down about an inch off the parchment surface, with a basic round tip (an 806 is wonderful).  This dough forgives, so keep piping away and just wipe up the dough that needs repiping.
ingredients
Pate a Choux
250g Water
100g Butter
150g Cake Flour, sifted
225g Eggs (or 3 whole eggs)
3g Salt
5g Sugar
Lemon Zest Whipped Cream
225g Heavy Cream
1ea Lemon, Zest
a/n Powdered Sugar
method
Place water, butter, salt, and sugar in a pot on medium high heat, bring to a boil, add flour.  Using a wooden spatula, firmly stir mixture until a ball forms, stir for ~2 minutes, remove from heat and work for an additional minute. Place dough in a stand mixer and paddle for ~2 minutes, add one egg at a time until fully incorporated. Place dough in a piping bag fitted with an 806 tip, and evenly pipe out on a parchment lined baking sheet, about 2-inch diameter for each cream puff, one inch apart. Bake at 375 for ~24mns, rotating midway through.

Make whipped cream as usual, fold in lemon zest.  Once cream puffs are cool, gently cut in half, and place a spoonful of whipped cream, top and powder with sugar.

Les Pate a Choux.

I spent weeks on this recipe.  Baking sheet upon baking sheet, piping eclairs, cream puffs, profiteroles, swans, gougeres, making fillings, ganache, chantilly cream, creme anglais, writing down every change in the recipe, a recipe that at its most basic includes only four ingredients, bakes quickly and, best of all, forgives.

For a while I interned at a french pastry test kitchen, the head pastry chef and myself, going through recipes, testing, retesting, tasting, retasting, and this being pastry, where you can’t just make one of anything, throwing out all the extras at the end of the day. Of all the “Les Pate a Choux” we made, this was my favorite.  I like taking the baking just a little dark.  The crust, the ‘ugliness’ and non-uniformity, the crispy outside and creamy inside.  Delicate and delicious.

recipe

For it being composed of four basic ingredients, attention is in high demand, and the piping needs to be done uniformly, pointing straight down about an inch off the parchment surface, with a basic round tip (an 806 is wonderful).  This dough forgives, so keep piping away and just wipe up the dough that needs repiping.

ingredients

Pate a Choux

250g Water

100g Butter

150g Cake Flour, sifted

225g Eggs (or 3 whole eggs)

3g Salt

5g Sugar

Lemon Zest Whipped Cream

225g Heavy Cream

1ea Lemon, Zest

a/n Powdered Sugar

method

Place water, butter, salt, and sugar in a pot on medium high heat, bring to a boil, add flour.  Using a wooden spatula, firmly stir mixture until a ball forms, stir for ~2 minutes, remove from heat and work for an additional minute. Place dough in a stand mixer and paddle for ~2 minutes, add one egg at a time until fully incorporated. Place dough in a piping bag fitted with an 806 tip, and evenly pipe out on a parchment lined baking sheet, about 2-inch diameter for each cream puff, one inch apart. Bake at 375 for ~24mns, rotating midway through.

Make whipped cream as usual, fold in lemon zest.  Once cream puffs are cool, gently cut in half, and place a spoonful of whipped cream, top and powder with sugar.

avillagefarm:

Recipe:  Asian Pear Chutney
We’ve been totally wowed by the end-of-summer Asian pears we’ve coming in at the shop.  This recipe is a great way to preserve them and enjoy year round.  While this chutney can be used in all variety of ways—with rice, on sandwiches, on top of a bowl of congee, we particularly like putting some out with a cheeseboard.

recipe by ruby grenier
photography by juan carlos nerio
Ingredients
1 ½ lbs chopped pear
1 ¼cups apple cider vinegar
1cup currants
1cupe honey
1cupe almonds
3ea cloves garlic
1 thumb of ginger
1ea onion
1 tsp salt
1 tsp cardamom
2ea star anise pods
1ea cinnamon stick
Method
Chop the pears and onion into small pieces.  Finely mince the ginger and garlic.  Add all ingredients except the honey and almonds and bring to a boil.  Reduce heat to medium low and simmer for 45 minutes to an hour, stirring frequently.  Meanwhile, toast the almonds either on the stovetop or in the oven.  Let them cool, then chop roughly and add to the chutney.  Once combined, remove from heat and let cool slightly.  Remove the anise pods and cinnamon stick and discard before adding the honey, stir to combine thoroughly.
Preserve the chutney in sterilized mason jars and process in a hot water bath for 15 minutes, or cool and store the chutney in a fridge for up to three months.

avillagefarm:

Recipe:  Asian Pear Chutney

We’ve been totally wowed by the end-of-summer Asian pears we’ve coming in at the shop.  This recipe is a great way to preserve them and enjoy year round.  While this chutney can be used in all variety of ways—with rice, on sandwiches, on top of a bowl of congee, we particularly like putting some out with a cheeseboard.

recipe by ruby grenier

photography by juan carlos nerio

Ingredients

1 ½ lbs chopped pear

1 ¼cups apple cider vinegar

1cup currants

1cupe honey

1cupe almonds

3ea cloves garlic

1 thumb of ginger

1ea onion

1 tsp salt

1 tsp cardamom

2ea star anise pods

1ea cinnamon stick

Method

Chop the pears and onion into small pieces.  Finely mince the ginger and garlic.  Add all ingredients except the honey and almonds and bring to a boil.  Reduce heat to medium low and simmer for 45 minutes to an hour, stirring frequently.  Meanwhile, toast the almonds either on the stovetop or in the oven.  Let them cool, then chop roughly and add to the chutney.  Once combined, remove from heat and let cool slightly.  Remove the anise pods and cinnamon stick and discard before adding the honey, stir to combine thoroughly.

Preserve the chutney in sterilized mason jars and process in a hot water bath for 15 minutes, or cool and store the chutney in a fridge for up to three months.

Apple Wood Smoked Salmon w Sumac Yogurt & Greens
For the last few weeks at the farmers there’s been one vendor who keeps grabbing my attention and finally I have given in to the apple wood he carries.  The two issues that have stopped me have been the heat and the time involved.  As a way of addressing both, and getting delicious results, I have used salmon, and paired it with greens and a cooling yogurt.  In the time it takes to smoke the salmon the greens and yogurt can be prepared.
The scent of the apple wood is incredible in this dish.
recipe
To make full use of the salmon, I ask my fishmonger for a filet near the tail of the fish, this yields more skin, which in turn I remove from the filet and smoke separately until crispy and full of smoky flavor.  Of course the fish can be smoked with the skin on, but by removing the skin it can be used to add crunch and a nice presentation to the salad.
To smoke: I do not own a smoker but rigged one up using a tagine:  warm the tagine in a 350F oven, once ready place on a stovetop at medium heat, add the chips and bring to a smoke, place a rack (I used an Asian steamer), then place the filet on top and cover with the tagine top.  Simple and effective.
 ingredients
450g  Salmon Filet, skin separated and hand torn to strips
100g  Apple Wood, chopped into chips
125g  Yogurt, Bulgarian
8g  Sumac
2ea  Garlic, cloves, grated
a/n  Lemon, juice
a/n  Greens
method
Using a smoker or a setup as described above, smoke the fish and skin for ~20mns until firm, skin may take ~5mns more to crisp up.  In the meantime combine yogurt, sumac, grated garlic, lemon juice, and season to taste. Reserve.

To serve:  Gently separate smoked salmon into pieces by hand and toss in the yogurt dressing, season greens and add a squeeze of lemon juice. Plate along w crispy salmon skin.

Apple Wood Smoked Salmon w Sumac Yogurt & Greens

For the last few weeks at the farmers there’s been one vendor who keeps grabbing my attention and finally I have given in to the apple wood he carries.  The two issues that have stopped me have been the heat and the time involved.  As a way of addressing both, and getting delicious results, I have used salmon, and paired it with greens and a cooling yogurt.  In the time it takes to smoke the salmon the greens and yogurt can be prepared.

The scent of the apple wood is incredible in this dish.

recipe

To make full use of the salmon, I ask my fishmonger for a filet near the tail of the fish, this yields more skin, which in turn I remove from the filet and smoke separately until crispy and full of smoky flavor.  Of course the fish can be smoked with the skin on, but by removing the skin it can be used to add crunch and a nice presentation to the salad.

To smoke: I do not own a smoker but rigged one up using a tagine:  warm the tagine in a 350F oven, once ready place on a stovetop at medium heat, add the chips and bring to a smoke, place a rack (I used an Asian steamer), then place the filet on top and cover with the tagine top.  Simple and effective.

 ingredients

450g  Salmon Filet, skin separated and hand torn to strips

100g  Apple Wood, chopped into chips

125g  Yogurt, Bulgarian

8g  Sumac

2ea  Garlic, cloves, grated

a/n  Lemon, juice

a/n  Greens

method

Using a smoker or a setup as described above, smoke the fish and skin for ~20mns until firm, skin may take ~5mns more to crisp up.  In the meantime combine yogurt, sumac, grated garlic, lemon juice, and season to taste. Reserve.

To serve:  Gently separate smoked salmon into pieces by hand and toss in the yogurt dressing, season greens and add a squeeze of lemon juice. Plate along w crispy salmon skin.

avillagefarm:

As our Summer comes to a (sort of) end, peppers of all colors and types are hitting a high note in California, and we love the red bell peppers in our market now. They are extremely versatile, being used as main components of a dish or taking a background role that complements many dishes.
Here, we have taken red bell peppers, paired them with roma tomatoes, almonds, and garlic for a California version of Romesco, and produced a sauce that is as well versatile, used as a dip to a quick marinade to a dressing for roasted veggies and meats, doubling down on the versatility of the products.
photography, styling, & recipe by juan carlos nerio
Romesco Sauce
ingredients
3ea Red Bell Peppers, seeded and cored
3ea Roma Tomatoes, halved
3ea Garlic, cloves
1cup Almonds, whole
1/2 cup Extra Virgin Olive Oil
1 Tbsp Vinagre de Jerez (Sherry Vinegar)
4oz Pimentos, canned + their juices
2tsp Pimenton, sweet smoked paprika may also be used
method
Broil the peppers, tomatoes, and garlic until slightly charred ~5-7mns, cool. Toast the almonds in a warm skillet, cool, then coarsely chop or crush. Using a blender, food processor, or hand blender, add all ingredients and puree until desired sauce consistency, season.  Balance flavor with additional sherry vinegar if necessary.
Yields ~3 cups.
Substitutions:  Day old toasted bread may be used instead of almonds.  Red wine vinegar or balsamic may be used instead of Sherry, with slightly different but interesting results.

avillagefarm:

As our Summer comes to a (sort of) end, peppers of all colors and types are hitting a high note in California, and we love the red bell peppers in our market now. They are extremely versatile, being used as main components of a dish or taking a background role that complements many dishes.

Here, we have taken red bell peppers, paired them with roma tomatoes, almonds, and garlic for a California version of Romesco, and produced a sauce that is as well versatile, used as a dip to a quick marinade to a dressing for roasted veggies and meats, doubling down on the versatility of the products.

photography, styling, & recipe by juan carlos nerio

Romesco Sauce

ingredients

3ea Red Bell Peppers, seeded and cored

3ea Roma Tomatoes, halved

3ea Garlic, cloves

1cup Almonds, whole

1/2 cup Extra Virgin Olive Oil

1 Tbsp Vinagre de Jerez (Sherry Vinegar)

4oz Pimentos, canned + their juices

2tsp Pimenton, sweet smoked paprika may also be used

method

Broil the peppers, tomatoes, and garlic until slightly charred ~5-7mns, cool. Toast the almonds in a warm skillet, cool, then coarsely chop or crush. Using a blender, food processor, or hand blender, add all ingredients and puree until desired sauce consistency, season.  Balance flavor with additional sherry vinegar if necessary.

Yields ~3 cups.

Substitutions:  Day old toasted bread may be used instead of almonds.  Red wine vinegar or balsamic may be used instead of Sherry, with slightly different but interesting results.